We tried but couldn't make the planned 9 am start, but we were on the trail to Capurgano by 10. The walk up to the top of the ridge thru the jungle was steep at times but mostly like the Grouse Grind with heat. The view at the top was pretty spectacular looking one way to the bay and town of Sapzurro and the other to Capurgano. The bird noises were also pretty cool and we did get a picture of some sort of toucan. After an hour and a half, we arrived at Capurgano, a pleasant town of about 2,000. There were donkeys and horses everywhere working drawing carts or carrying bundles. We walked across the soccer field but had to be wary of the "land mines". There were no cars; the nearest road was about 200 km away. Next to the enjoyment of cruising thru the jungle, we needed to get some pesos to pay Sombrero and to shop as from what we were told, Capurgano was going to be our last real chance for a month or two. Well it wasn't spartan but it wasn't Cosco either. We found some basics and a few veggies, passed on the expensive beer and soon thought maybe that was a bad idea. The ride, yes we took a taxi back, a water taxi that was wild and wet. With our 20 to 30 lbs of stuff we didn't want to hike back. The "taxi", driven by Mono who always had a beer whenever we saw him, was a fifteen foot, narrow pirogue and the course took us out into open water where the seas were running 8 to 10 feet. We were a tad damp when we got back, but we got back. Our last night in Sapzurro was rolly and unpleasant, but we enjoyed the town and the people.
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